When January arrives, the chilly climate of San Juan de Pasto, in southern Colombia, heats up to the rhythm of Andean music, brilliant satire, and an unparalleled explosion of color. The Black and White Carnival (Carnaval de Negros y Blancos) is not just a party; it is a collective catharsis, a space where social hierarchies vanish, and everyone returns to the joy of childhood.
At Ecoturismo Colombia, we deeply celebrate this event—declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2009—because it perfectly condenses the diversity of southwestern Colombia: its indigenous heritage, African influence, and Spanish traditions.
A Festival Born from Rebellion and History
Unlike many global carnivals that precede Lent, this one takes place between December 28th and January 6th. Why? Because its roots are deeply anchored in ancient indigenous agrarian celebrations and the historical rebellions of enslaved Africans during the colonial era.
Day-by-Day Carnival Guide
If you plan to travel, you must understand the rules of the “game”:
- Dec 28 (Water Game): Similar to April Fool’s Day, the entire city plays at getting soaked with water to purify the passing year. Beware, no one is safe!
- Dec 31 (Old Year Parade): Satirical effigies (Años Viejos) parade through the city, poking fun at politicians or global events. At midnight, they are burned as a symbol of healing and renewal.
- Jan 5 (Day of the Blacks): The origin of the festival. It commemorates the one day off the Spanish Crown granted to enslaved people. Today, everyone paints their faces with black cosmetic paint (pintica) in the streets. It is a powerful message of equality: beneath the paint, we are all the same.
- Jan 6 (Day of the Whites): The grand finale. The black paint is swapped for white talcum powder and foam. The streets host the majestic Desfile Magno, where local artisans display massive, intricate papier-mâché floats, rightfully considered moving works of art.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
- What should I wear to the Black and White Carnival? Comfortable clothes you don’t mind ruining (you will be covered in paint and powder), protective eyewear, and a hat.
- Is it safe to play in the streets? Yes! The atmosphere is one of profound brotherhood and mutual respect. “Playing” is the golden rule.
- What should I eat during the Black and White Carnival? It is the perfect time to try the traditional roasted Guinea Pig (Cuy Asado) or delicious local fried pastries.
💬 Join the game: Do you prefer the Day of the Blacks with its beautiful message of equality, or the Day of the Whites with the majesty of the giant floats? Let us know below!
